Damsels in distress may be the stuff of storybook legend, but in real life, they are the stuff of spectacular fly fishing. Anglers familiar with damselflies can experience both nymph and dry-fly fishing that borders on the ridiculous. In addition, the time of the damsels is also the time of eye-opening sight-fishing. It is truly one hatch not to be missed.

Like dragonflies, damsels belong to the order Odonata, within which they are sub-ordered into Zygoptera. While damsels can be found in the slower-moving stretches of rivers and streams, it is in stillwater environments where they are most abundant and of most importance to the angler.

In addition to their large size (20-50mm), damsel nymphs are easily recognized by the presence of three paddle-shaped gills at the tip of their long, thin abdomens. The rather robust, but abbreviated thoracic region sports wing pads and the typical six legs of an insect. In addition, damsel nymphs have large, bulbous eyes. The nymphal colors are species and water-shed variable, but generally range from tan, to various shades of green, to purplish-brown.

When the nymphs have matured, they migrate from their weedy homes toward shore, swimming close to the surface. This is primarily a mid- to late-morning activity. Holding their legs out to the sides and wriggling their bodies back and forth, they appear much like miniature, slow-swimming minnows.

If the nymphs make it to shore or other above-water objects, they will crawl out and slowly hatch in adults. Once the adult is free of its nymphal fetters, some time is required for its body and wings to elongate, harden and assume their final coloration. Damsel adults in the intermediary post-hatch stage are normally pale green to yellowish-olive in color and are referred to as "tenerals." They are exceptionally clumsy fliers and often get blown down onto the water where they may float or be washed under.

Like the nymphs, the adults have long, slender abdomens with short, relatively heavy thoraxes. Somewhat fitful fliers, the adults prefer to be on the wing during calmer, sunny periods.

After the adults mate, they fly in tandem just above the water, where the female dips her abdomen, depositing eggs on or over weeds. A few species will crawl subsurface to lay eggs. When the wind gusts, the amorous adults often get blown down onto or into the water. Much like big mayfly spinners, water-mired damsels may struggle weakly or not at all, lying with their wings in a combination of outstretched and delta positions.

There are many imitations that have been devised to represent damsel nymphs, tenerals and adults. What follows are three flies that have been developed over the years as a result of angling excursions ranging from New Zealand to New Mexico.

The Marabou Damsel Nymph is simple: A long tail of marabou fibers (long enough to imitate both the abdomen and tails), a short, thick thorax with dubbing-loop-spun hair legs, and a wingcase/head formed from peacock herl. The marabou waves and pulsates in the water like the wiggling abdomen of the natural, the stiff hair legs ape the profile of the natural’s appendages properly, and the wingcase and head of herl provide iridescence and an enhanced silhouette to the fly. Bead-chain or monofilament eyes can also be added if desired.

My teneral/adult damsel imitation of choice is the Braided-Butt Damsel, a design that my father, Gary, and his friend Bob Pelzl, developed in 1985. Based on a pattern that my father and Bob first saw when fishing in New Zealand, the Braided-Butt Damsel uses marker-dyed braided monofilament for the abdomen and a watery-dun hackle tied 3/4-parachute style for the wings. The thorax is formed from three-ply yarn. Yarn is used because of its "multiple personalities." When treated with floatant, it allows the fly to sit on the surface film. Left untreated, the yarn soaks up water and allows the fly to ride awash. When combined with split shot or putty, the untreated fly can be fished wet. Regardless of how it is presented, the fly is exceptionally tough and has terrific overall profile. More than a decade and a half after its initial development, the pattern has remained essentially unchanged.

When I want to tie imitations specifically for fishing awash or wet, I will utilize a softer, "webby" hackle. Such a modification allows the fly to sink better and adds an enhanced sense of natural, water-washed motion.

For imitating the swimming motion of the damsel nymphs, slow hand-twists, tiny, uneven strips and long, smooth pulls on the line all work. However, I consider the best overall retrieve technique to be the Strip-Tease. The line is stripped one foot in three seconds (the "strip") as the rod tip is wiggled back and forth or up and down a few inches (the "tease"). The fly is then allowed to rest for three seconds before resuming the aforementioned active motion. The whole process repeats for the duration of the retrieve. This cyclical pulsing/resting action causes the artificial to behave very much like the natural and forces the angler to slow down.

To put the Strip-Tease to best use, concentrate your efforts on the outside and inside of weed beds, the areas around structure, pockets, inlets and the open waters between weedbeds and shore. A simple axiom to remember is that "fish follow food." If the food is headed from the weeds towards shore, you can bet the fish are doing the same thing.

When blind casting to a very specific location, or getting a fly in front of a rising fish, I will use a simple straight-line cast. Such a basic delivery can also be used from a float tube or boat to fish the entire length of a weed edge. Simply position yourself at a weed edge and cast along its length. The retrieved fly will be "in the zone" for the entire length of the cast. On outer weed edges, fish may be intercepting damsel nymphs that are rising from submerged vegetation so it can pay to use a sinking line to keep the fly deep.

If I am wading or walking, I will often use an aerial curve mend to lay the line along the edge of the weeds. The trick is to stand so that you are quartering at the target, make the cast, and then curve mend the line toward the weed edge. Done right, an "L"-shaped curve will be the result. One leg of the "L" will follow the weed edge, the other leg of the "L" will be directed toward you. Because of water tension, the "L" will retain its general shape as you retrieve. This tactic allows your fly to remain in the strike zone for much longer than if you simply cast perpendicularly to the weed edge.

When it comes to blind-fishing the adult imitations, my "go-to" method is the Heave and Leave. Just as the name would suggest, the technique involves casting the fly to likely or known feeding areas (the same places as for fishing the nymphs) and letting it sit. A twitch every five to fifteen seconds is all that is needed. If you want to fish a sunken imitation or just cannot stand to let a fly sit still, use a very slow hand-twist retrieve.

Blind-casting to likely-looking water or to rising fish is productive and exciting during the time of the damsels, but sight-fishing is really the ultimate experience.

It is important to know what visual cues to look for when trying to spot fish. Do not try to find a whole fish, rather look for the fish’s shadow against the bottom, a movement of a tail or fin, the opening and closing of a fish’s mouth, the movement of surface weeds as a fish passes by and the color of the fish’s flank. Do not stare at water, rather let your eyes scan and roam from bottom to surface and from side to side.

The key to approaching fish that may literally be within inches of the bank or weed edges is stealth. Keeping low to minimize your profile, wearing duller colors, moving smoothly and making Side-Arm or Bow-and-Arrow casts are all elements of success. Assume that the fish will be able to see you and then act accordingly. You can get amazingly close to damsel-eating fish by employing a little forethought and patience.

When fishing damsels, I generally prefer a mid/fast-action rod in a nine-foot length for a four or five-weight line (usually floating or intermediate). If I am float tubing or wading really deep, I may choose a ten-foot rod for added line elevation and manipulation capability.
When close-range sight-fishing (especially on weed- or tree-encrusted shorelines) I will go for an eight or eight and one-half foot rod, again with four- or five-weight lines. Taking that foot or two from the rod length allows for better maneuvering, yet does not cost too much in the line manipulation department.

Leaders can be fairly simple. Four feet of .020", two feet of .013", one foot of .010" (1X) and two feet of .007" (4X) is a good place to start. I would go shorter for quick casts when sight fishing.
While there are some spectacular damsel-specific destinations available, you likely do not have to travel far from your home in order to have great fishing. Indeed, all you need to do is find a few damsels in distress.


MARABOU DAMSEL NYMPH
HOOK: Sizes 10-14
ABDOMEN/GILLS: 10-14 Marabou fibers in olives, tans, or browns (Borger Color System, or BCS 16, 20, 30, 55, 94, 101, 103, 112, 116, etc.)
THORAX/LEGS: Dubbing loop incorporating dubbed body-color marabou fibers and rabbit guard-hairs (set at a right angles to the loop to form hair legs). An under-rib of wire can be added for weight/action purposes.
WINGCASE/HEAD: Natural peacock herl or Z-lon (in color to match body). Monofilament or bead-chain eyes are optional.

BRAIDED-BUTT DAMSEL (TENERAL)
HOOK: Sizes 10-12
ABDOMEN: Braided monofilament dyed with permanent marker to match body color. Most common colors are pale olive to mustard (BCS 37, 40, 55, 56, etc.)
THORAX: Yarn or dubbing to match body color.
POST: Yarn to match body color.
HACKLE: Cock or hen hackle in watery dun color (BCS 106), wound 3/4 parachute style. Hackle can also be marker-dyed to greenish or tanninsh tints.

BRAIDED-BUTT DAMSEL (ADULT)
HOOK: Sizes 10-12.
ABDOMEN: Braided monofilament dyed with permanent marker to match body color and markings. Most common colors are bright blue (BCS 136), deep green (BCS 10), and grayish-tan (BCS 104)
THORAX: Yarn or dubbing to match body color.
POST: Yarn to match body color.
HACKLE: Cock or hen hackle in watery dun color (BCS 106), wound 3/4 parachute style.

This article is used with direct permission from the author. It may not be reproduced or used in any way without the expressed consent from the author.


This article and all of it's contents are used with direct permission from the author. They may not be reproduced or used in any way without the expressed consent from the author.